Kottayam

West Coasts: A story for my sister

Michelle Sindha Thomas

GOD’S OWN COUNTRY | KOTTAYAM 1900-1977

III: PAPA

Papa remembers only vague interactions with Babyammachi on the weekends she spent in Kottayam: She rewarded him with a turtleneck because he was brave and did not cry during a vaccination. She once pinched him while trying to teach him math and so he flung her umbrella and ran off. “She did her best,” he says, while he and his brothers spent their childhood seeing her only occasionally, entirely raised by their grandparents, uncles, and aunts. 

Papa, on the fence

Papa fondly called his aunty Agnes “Aama”, which means “turtle.” Well, she looked like a turtle. His grandparents were called Appachin and Aamachi, of course. His uncle James used to call each of the boys, affectionately, “Ponnomon,” meaning “my precious one.” And so they called him, in return, Ponnumon. Young Syriac once asked him a question for which he didn’t know the answer, and Syriac responded with outrage: “You know everything, Ponnumon, but you don’t know this?!” Uncle James was an avid photographer, and he developed his own film at home in the dedicated darkroom. The house at Baker Junction was a lively, stimulating place for three boys to grow up: They could perform science experiments, play music, read the books which arrived for their grandfather by the stack, play in the attic, play in the wood cellar, play pranks on the visiting priest, adopt cats, rescue them when they fell in the well. They watched the coffee tree bloom with jasmine-like flowers that filled the neighborhood with their fragrance. They picked guavas in the yard and played among coconut palms and tropical plants; they once circled the long-barren pomelo tree in song, beating it with sticks, and still tell of their shock when it began to bear huge fruits months later. Their home was in the bustling heart of Kottayam, and their grandfather built a medical shop in front of the house for his nephew, Kuttapan, to manage. Kuttapan was a family man and during holidays took the boys to see their cousins and other relatives in the Kuttunad countryside. The city boys marveled at the watery world of their ancestors where, instead of roads, they traveled along canals and rivers. 

Meanwhile, Aunty Lucy completed her Master of Social Work degree with honors and received a scholarship to attend Loyola University in Chicago. “When I wanted to go to America,” she said, “my father was very reluctant because I would have to travel alone by ship. He thought I should go by plane, by British Airways, which was about three or four thousand rupees.” Babyammachi had saved the insurance money from her husband’s death and told her, “I will help you to buy the ticket.” Lucy arrived in Chicago in the fall of 1962, wearing a sari and sandals, unprepared for the coming winter, but she was quickly supported by the Loyola Malayali Student Association. “I didn’t have any problem with meeting friends and all,” she reassured me, including American classmates and other Indians in the city, including her beau, our yet-to-be Uncle Jerry. 

“All my sisters were fond of our three boys,” she remembered, saying, “When I first went back, before I married, I bought lots of candy and clothes and everything for Syriac, Ike, and Jake—those three were our pets.” She traveled with suitcases bulging with presents, and once she arrived, called them over to open her bags and enjoy the surprise. Ike was about eight and said, “Aunty, I have some homework to do, so I will do that first and then I will come.” Of course, he grew up to become a doctor. Papa must have been tiny then, and she said, “I bought for Jake some kind of pant and shirt with a tiger design. It was so cute when he was going around with that tiger design.” I wondered at this sentimental Lucy I’d never before witnessed as she repeated, “They were our pets. Everyone wanted to buy things for them because they were the first children in the family.” Papa does not remember this tiger costume but fondly recalls the Japanese sweets and records she brought for the grown-ups: The Sound of Music, My Fair Lady, the latest hits of Lawrence Welk. As they grew older she sent her nephews records recommended by her friends at work, including Let It Bleed by The Rolling Stones.

Papa, top center

Papa vividly remembers acts of kindness from family friends and neighbors who felt compassion for a boy growing up without his father. He was napping on the porch one day and woke to find a straw hat swinging from his wrist, and wonders to this day who gave it to him. A kind-hearted relative-by-marriage whose mother had died when he was young took little Papa to Best Hotel for a pineapple jam sandwich, cut into two neat triangles. He looked out for the three boys, checking in on them often, inviting them to his wedding to a nurse from America, shortly after which he died in a plane crash, on his way to Madras for his visa interview.

Papa and his brothers grew up attending Miss Baker School, right across the street from their home. While their family was Catholic, there were no Catholic boys’ schools in the area, and their grandparents appreciated the academic rigor (and convenience) of the Protestant school administered by the Church of South India. Papa remembers very little about his elementary school days (besides an oft-repeated, unsolved mystery regarding a boy named Jabahar who always smelled like banana fritters). He was not without rascal antics: He once stayed home from school and spent the day tagging along with his grandmother. They went to visit their Hindu neighbors, the owners of G.R. Prabhu and Sons’ stationary shop. Papa became bored while the adults were chatting and he started wandering around, exploring the house until he happened upon their prayer room, full of images and statues of the family gods and a big, beautiful pair of scissors used for cutting the wicks of oil lamps. He tucked the scissors into his pocket. When he went home, he quietly started snipping at everything in sight until he went too far and sliced the edge off a woven mat in the living room. His grandmother started investigating, the truth came out, and Papa had to return the scissors to G.R. Prabhu and, most embarrassingly, his sons, who were his classmates at Miss Baker school.

Papa rhapsodizes about instruments his family had at home at Baker Junction: an organ, harmonium, guitar, and bulbul plus the exotic instruments that would show up when fun Uncle Johnny and his band, Friends Orchestra, would rehearse for shows. The band played Malayalam, Tamil, and Hindi songs, and occasionally Western-style music; Papa was around five or six when a guitarist and a drummer joined a rehearsal and he first encountered live drums, transfixed. Over the next few years, his grandfather noticed his sense of rhythm, how his hands were always busy repurposing innocent objects as drumsticks and beating on every surface: Once, when Appachin was inhaling steam, his face under a towel draped over a bowl of hot water, little Papa approached from behind and started drumming on his head! Appachin urged Babyammachi to buy a percussion instrument for him to play. She brought him a tabla; young Papa said, “I don’t want a tabla, I want bongos.” A devoted musician herself, she understood the particularity and obliged.

Around this time, Babyammachi started building Rose House for her little family. It was pink, with a flat, modern roof and a breezy reception room, just a few kilometers away from her parents’ place at Baker Junction. They christened the home by hosting Uncle Johnny’s wedding reception and started moving things from Baker Junction immediately after the party. While she would continue teaching away from home and visiting Kottayam on weekends, Papa was still only about ten years old and his brothers were young teens. Babyammachi’s aunt and namesake, Clarammachi, also moved from Baker Junction to care for the boys. Papa remembers helping Clarammachi with her tasks, husking coconuts and pounding spices for cooking with a huge mortar and pestle. She continued to serve as the key maternal figure guiding young Papa, encouraging his musical talent and protecting his tender heart. “She was like a buffer and always on my side,” Papa says, “We were one team.” His favorite Malayalam aphorisms and bits of wit and wisdom are gems she bequeathed him, for example, “Don’t take the snake from the hedge and put it in your lap,” and, “Where there is a beating going on, don’t go show your cheek.”

Clarammachi was a petite, fair-skinned, bird-like figure, with earlobes stretched from wearing heavy gold earrings in a style bygone earlier in the century. She adored Papa as if he was her own child. Clarammachi was his grandmother’s sister, herself doted upon by a mother who assumed she could not have children until she gave birth to two daughters late in life. They were sent to a convent school in Aleppy, but before she finished high school, Clarammachi was married, to a good man from Changanasherry. Together they had one son and, Aunty Lucy the social worker hypothesized, “I think he had some mental illness.” Remembering him from her own childhood, she said, “He was very knowledgeable and he would always go to the library and read. He was always reading and he was very smart in that way. He was like a walking encyclopedia, but seemed to develop a schizo-affective disorder after a certain age: He was very nice to us but would sit alone, talking to himself sometimes. He went to the army and returned—then, one day, when he was 30 or so, he walked out and nobody heard from him after that.” Clarammachi’s husband had already died by then, and she was alone in Changanasherry. She moved in with her sister and family in Kottayam, watching her nieces and nephews grow up, then her adorable grand-nephews. When he was little, Papa would confide in Clarammachi, “When I grow up, I want to buy a drum set,” and she would promise him, “Yes, I will sell my earrings and buy you some drums.” 

Rose House became a music hub. Clarammachi and Papa’s older cousin Mercy, who moved in when she began teaching at a nearby women’s college, were indulgent guardians, utterly accepting of the boys’ taste in rock ’n roll and the constant stream of friends coming and going for rehearsals. Papa’s eldest brother, Syriac, had taken voice and music lessons as a child. He started playing harmonium when he was five, then taught himself guitar and started gaining local recognition and a reputation as a genius guitar player, sought after for parties and events. Uncle Ike started with violin lessons, then switched to bass guitar. Papa never took lessons, but practiced his bongos ardently and joined Syriac and Uncle Johnny at performances starting when he was only ten years old. 

Papa never did forget that drum set he first saw at Uncle Johnny’s rehearsal and started asking him about it with more intention as he got older: “Where did they come from? Whose were they? Do you think they are still around? Can we try to find them?” Johnny supposed they might be in storage at the Kottayam Home Guards Club, suggesting that they check in with the president of the Kottayam Arts Society, C.T. John, who would know for sure.

Papa was a kid in shorts, a pre-teen on a mission, and he set off in pursuit of the illustrious C.T. John. His first lead was Nainan, a singer who lived in his neighborhood. Nainan was about 15 years older than Papa, and amused by the quest, he was glad to help. The very same day, he took Papa across the Tharthangaddy River to see another singer, Kuriakose, who might know where C.T. John lived—and they happened to live in the same neighborhood! The three of them headed to C.T. John’s house. Little Papa looked through the window and realized C.T. John was taking an afternoon nap; they waited at a neighbor’s house and returned around 4 pm when he was ready to receive them. C.T. John entered the sitting room, elegant in his pure white mundu, with a professorial aura and the easy confidence of a man of influence. Papa introduced himself as Johnny’s nephew and explained the reason for their visit. 

C.T. John knew Uncle Johnny from his glory days, and shared that while, unfortunately, the drums were no more, Papa was welcome to gather the musicians he knew, professionals including Kuriakose, Nainan, Johnny, his brother Syriac. C.T. John welcomed them to rehearse at the Home Guards Club and even invited them to perform at a prestigious monthly event: The Kottayam Arts Society gathered at the club for cultural programs—plays, fine arts shows, and concerts, and C.T. John invited the band to open these programs: “You all can perform before the shows!” This offer was beyond Papa’s expectations. He was thrilled and promised to assemble a group. He excitedly went and told Syriac, Uncle Johnny, who had started taking to drink by then and had lost his focus on music, Johnny’s associates from Friends Orchestra, some of whom had become locally famous, and they began a schedule of rehearsals at the Home Guards Club. As promised, every month, when the Arts Society had a show, they were the opening act, performing Indian pop music and rock instrumentals, covers of Ventures songs. These performances were lauded as a second wind for Johnny’s Friends Orchestra. The group started generating a buzz among the Arts Society members, who started booking them for parties, functions, and concerts, and they soon became famous in Kottayam.

Uncle Ike and Papa

Around this time, a rock band called The Elite Aces traveled from coastal, cosmopolitan Cochin to perform in Kottayam. Papa was fascinated by their music, covers of popular English songs by Cliff Richard, the Beatles, CCR, the Rolling Stones, and The Ventures. Papa and his brothers were impressed and inspired to start their own band: The Bit Ventures. Their first show as The Bit Ventures was at Alleppy, where they played instrumental covers. Papa played rhythm guitar, Syriac played lead guitar, and Ike played bass. Their friend, a famous percussionist named Shahul, played bongos and his friend Rajan Kora played the congo drums. Eventually the band put their money together and bought drums from Cochin for Shahul to play—Papa still did not have his own drum set. “Understandable,” Papa says. He was wearing shorts, he reminds me, which means he was still in 7th or 8th grade, while Shahul was 15 years older and a more experienced musician.

The Bit Ventures played for a multi-band rock festival at the Ernakulam Fine Arts Hall and the national Junior Statesman Magazine published an article about them. This was a turning point for the band—The Bit Ventures became popular all over Kerala and were constantly booked to play shows in major cities: Cochin, Trivandrum, Alleppy, Thrissur. They would rent a Tempo van with a driver and travel great distances with their instruments; for Alleppy shows they had to travel by boat, of course. Occasionally, they played with Ambli, a film singer, for her live concerts. Clarammachi sat at home while the boys were running around everywhere and coming home at 2-3 am. They were hired for gigs even on weekdays. Syriac would pull Papa out of school for out-of-town shows; their teachers understood and supported their priorities. Music fully consumed Papa’s attention from age 11 onwards…he even failed one year of school.

One year after the band started, Papa’s best friend A.T. joined and started playing the bongos. He was always hanging around Rose House during rehearsals and quickly caught on to the bit of percussion Papa showed him. Meanwhile, Shahul had long known that Papa could, and was determined to, play the drums. When he was 12 or 13 years old, Papa made a drum set out of a big tea box with a pedal fulcrum on top that he could drum with a stick; with pipes and a cymbal he made a high hat. Shahul would never let Papa touch the professional drum set even though all the band members had chipped in to buy them and rehearsals took place at his own house. One evening, when Papa was 15 and walking home from town, he was bitten by a snake. His doctor advised that he stay up all night to make sure he maintained consciousness and ensure the danger of poisoning had passed. To stay awake, he thought, “Let me play the drums gently,” keeping himself engaged until sunrise. Word got out to Shahul that Papa played the drums without his permission, and while Shahul did not confront him then, his patience with Papa ran shorter than ever. 

A few weeks later, just before a performance, Papa was waiting onstage, absentmindedly touching the tom-tom when Shahul finally lost his temper. In response, Papa went on strike, saying, “I am not playing at the next rehearsal if Shahul will be there.” Uncle Johnny had witnessed the incident and supported Papa, saying Shahul was in the wrong, that it was not proper for him to lash out. By then Papa was feeling bold: He had been assembling parts for his own professional drum set. He had traveled to Manual Industries in Cochin and bought a snare drum. He went again with A.T. and ordered a bass drum and accessories. Piece by piece, he had nearly put together a full set of drums. Syriac, the band’s resident genius and undisputed leader, stood up for Papa, telling Shahul he was no longer in the band and they watched him walk out, angry. 

Uncle Syriac

Papa still was not the band’s drummer; they needed him to continue playing rhythm guitar. His friend, A.T., played the drums, and for difficult songs, Papa took over. When A.T. accepted a job at a faraway tea estate, Papa finally became the official drummer of The Bit Ventures. They continued to play songs by The Ventures, in addition to Santana, Grand Funk Railroad, and brand new originals inspired by English music they heard on Radio Ceylon and the countless records they acquired. Syriac’s fame continued to grow and he was regarded as one of the top guitarists in the state, if not the country. He was regularly occupied playing guitar for film playback singers and prestigious solo gigs. Ike left the band when he went to Chengasherry for his pre-degree. In college, Papa had started a side band called Shark to keep the music going when Syriac was busy. Papa was the lead guitarist, A.T. played drums, Simon Diaz, whose mother was in UK, played rhythm, and Raju played bass. Papa also helped get his friend Tommy’s band, Violet Haze, started and they began rehearsing at Rose House to make use of their variety of drums. Tommy would eventually buy the drums when Papa moved away.

In 1974, 1975, and 1976, The Bit Ventures organized Rock Cyclone music festivals, during which they invited bands from other cities to play with them at Mammenmappala Hall in Kottayam. This is how they met new collaborators from Quilon: Zach of Fourth Experience and his friend, Bernard John, lead singer of The Hitchhikers. They moved to Kottayam and joined The Bit Ventures. The band sold tickets and raised additional funds by means of sponsors who would give large sums to advertise on tickets and fliers. The band’s popularity was growing exponentially and they began receiving inquiries from other states, including a proposal for a show in Bangalore—on the week they were to leave for America. 

Everyone knew them as the boys who were going to leave soon. In early 1975, Babyammachi had taken a one-year leave of absence from teaching and went to Chicago to help Lucy with her small sons. Aunty Lucy encouraged her to stay in Chicago and bring own her sons to complete their education in the US. She had tried to convince their mother and brother James to move, too; James went to America, hated it, and went back. Babayammachi decided to stay and retired from teaching altogether, writing home to tell the boys that she would like to bring them. Papa wasn’t excited about moving because of how well things were going for the band, but moving to America was considered a great opportunity. Educated Indians could quadruple their earning potential in a new country hungry for their professional talent. The demand was so great and migration was so high in the ‘70s that the population of Kottayam stood still and nearly declined over the following decades. Clarammachi dreaded the thought of parting from her dear nephews; knowing great change was imminent, she removed her gold signet ring, telling Papa to wear it and remember her always. “I’m still here,” Papa protested. Babyammachi sponsored the boys and little did they realize that within months they would move away from Kerala to Chicago, Illinois.

Papa attended CMS College for his pre-degree and studied economics, thanks to his buddy M.I. Rajan. Papa always had a solid circle of friends, connected by their love for music. Rajan was the one who told Papa about Jimi Hendrix; he knew about anything new and cool and would share it. Papa says, “His mother was 100% okay with him being friends with me. Our friends’ parents sometimes had a problem with music people, but she knew our father died and she had seen us growing up.” Kottayam was still a small town of around 60,000 and everyone knew of the three musically talented boys whose grandfather was the Deepika newspaper editor, a former lawyer who had resigned because he didn’t want to support dishonesty, they knew the medical store and the Vanitharamam ladies’ magazine which his aunties now managed. “People knew about us,” Papa says a little less humbly than usual. Rajan and Papa had been in classes together since kindergarten but were not friends until they finished high school. Papa says, “That summer, he sought me out, we talked about guitars, and every day afterwards we hung out together, walked all over town, talked about music. He knew a whole lot about music. Even in school, he would give me music magazines like Monkey’s Annual.” Papa brings up the transparent blue drum set that we grew up with in Chicago: “The reason I was interested in see-through drums was because in high school Rajan showed them to me in a magazine; someone had made them out of fiberglass. It was fascinating to me, and when I saw the drums at Biasco Music in Chicago, I thought it would be nice to have them! I was surprised I got them! Only in America could we get a drum set like that, but they sat in the box for a long time because we had nowhere to play them.”

Papa, in stripes

In 1975, Papa encountered Mama.

Papa was 18 years old, quiet and watchful, brown and lanky, with a puff of curls and gentle, deliberate movements. By the ‘70s, CMS college had over 1,300 students from all over the country. Mama had just arrived from Bombay and enrolled for her pre-degree program late in the school year. Papa didn’t realize he had met her on her very first day of school.

“I just noticed her,” Papa says. She was a modern girl from a big city, “something like a movie star!” In Kottayam, there weren't too many girls who were dropped off for classes in a car, and she was strikingly beautiful: She was a head taller than the other girls, eye-to-eye with the boys or taller, with shiny, waist-length hair which she wore center-parted and loose instead of in a demure plait. She even dressed differently: Instead of cotton saris, she wore midis and maxis, bell bottoms and “elephant pants.” Her name was Nirmala Thangam, which means “pure gold.”

They met in true filmi fashion, on one of those grand, winding staircases signature of CMS college, a rich, brown, teak wonder, the first built in India. He was coming down from the cashier’s office while she was heading up to registration with Nani, going up the stairs the wrong way, following Nani, who was going whichever way she pleased like the darling diva she was. Papa was coming down the stairs the right way, of course, and accidentally bumped Mama on his path. At first, she didn't think anything of it, but some amused boys who witnessed the collision commended Papa, “Aha! That’s the way you do it!” She then believed he bumped into her on purpose, and shouted after him, “Are you blind or what!?” 

He never heard any of this. “I don’t remember if she said anything,” he says, always believing her an angel, “I don't even know if I said sorry, maybe I did. That is the brief encounter I remember, otherwise, there was no need for us to talk.”

Mama had little trouble adjusting from life in Bombay. She knew Kerala from the summers she spent visiting her grandmother and her days unfolded in tropical languor: She and her brother, Vinod, lived on the family estate in their summer home, a white modernist masterpiece with an Olympic swimming pool, nestled in the Rubber Board hills. The house was named after her: Nirmala Nikethan. Her father was in the tire business, and downhill from the main property was a retreading facility Vinod was intended to oversee, with Ideal Tyres employees coming and going to the shop in town. Mama would wake up at sunrise, as she still does, borrow a bicycle from one of the workers, and ride around and around the property line before they left for the shop. She would then head to school, either with her driver or with Vinod or on her own, in a yellow Fiat with the license plate JNC834321. Since she was one of the few at CMS college with a car, and a girl driving on her own at that, kids teased her, giving her a long, polysyllabic nickname: JNC834321. The students in Mama’s classes were kind and welcoming, giving her notes from the start of the semester so she could catch up. While she knew enough Malayalam to get by, not many of Mama’s new classmates conversed in English fluently, only George Thomas, whose father was in the publishing business and mother worked as a doctor. He had jet black, spiky hair, a gap-toothed smile, and a charming disposition. They became great pals, and in her yearbook he wrote, “I would have fallen in love with you if I didn’t think of you as my sister.” On her way back from classes, she would stop at Best Bakery to buy coconut macaroons and take them home to have at teatime. The maid would make tea and together they would enjoy the bakes. She would go swimming during the Radio Ceylon English music hour, and when the sun went down, she went in and ate dinner with Vinod, started her homework, propped on her elbows in bed, safely under her princess canopy mosquito net. They were Jehovah’s Witnesses, and on the weekends they would go in service, then go to night movies at Anand and Abilash theaters with the boys from the shop. Nani and Grandpop came in and out of town, back and forth from Bombay. Nani would bring huge suitcases of clothes in styles girls in Kottayam were not yet wearing, might never wear. Only Mama and the Punjabi girl at CMS wore a two-piece salwar kameez set back then. She had a maxi dress with suspenders, smocked dresses with puffed sleeves, custom fitted button downs, an array of trousers. One of the boys taunted, “Hey, you got your grandpa’s pants on?” She retorted, “No, actually they are your grandpa’s,” generations before the golden age of yo’ momma jokes. A stream of boys would escort her all the way home from class; they wouldn't say anything to her, but rode alongside her little yellow Fiat on bicycles and motorbikes and when she turned into her driveway, they likewise would turn and go their own ways. Sometimes she raced the boys who had cars. She wasn’t afraid of anything because she was from a big city, she wasn’t intimidated by testosterone because she had grown up with two huge, laughing brothers. Once, a lineup of heroes was walking in the college yard, and when they saw her they closed rank and veered to walk in her path, as if to challenge her—what would she do? As they came closer and closer, in their tight line, she kept walking, without breaking stride. When they reached her, they had to move aside, the Red Sea parting for her. 

One day, many months after she arrived in Kerala, Mama was at home getting ready to take a shower; she had oiled her hair and was wearing a slip dress. Papa and The Bit Ventures were in the Rubber Board neighborhood selling tickets for the 1976 Rock Cyclone. Every year, a bunch of friends would pile into a car to sell tickets in the outskirts of town, especially in wealthy neighborhoods where residents were inclined to appreciate English music. The boys pulled into the driveway of Nirmala Nikethan. “Her house was just one of those we visited,” Papa says, innocently. Some of the boys knew Vinod, but he wasn’t home. He continues, “I think somebody else went up to the door. They talked about the show, but I don’t think we sold tickets. I just saw her; the others were talking to her. I was the youngest in the group so I was just standing in the back.” This was only Papa’s second encounter with Mama. 

Later on, Mama noticed Papa on campus and pointed him out, remarking to George Thomas, “That boy had come to my house.” She says she didn’t think anything of him at that point—she was just making an observation. George Thomas was Mama’s favorite classmate but he also played guitar and knew Papa. “Yeah, he was probably a year younger than me,” Papa says, “and he told me I should call Mama and gave me her number. He didn't say why and I didn't ask. So that’s why I called.”

To this day, no one knows why George Thomas played cupid. Papa says, “He and I had never discussed Mama but she is so noticeable, the most beautiful girl in town, the one everyone talked about. She had a car at her disposal and a driver dropping her off at school. She was the only one like that being dropped off in a nice, new Fiat. I liked her very much at that time; there was nothing there not to like!” Papa called Mama: “I called the house and said, “This is Jacob Thomas.” Mama responded, “And so?”

He made small talk: “She was abrupt in the beginning because she didn't know who I was or why I called. All I could say was that George Thomas told me to call.” He called again in a few days. She knew it was him. Somewhere between the time she got home and dinner with Vinod, Papa would try to call. One time, he asked, “When is your birthday?” She said, “Oh, it has already passed, but I don’t celebrate my birthday anyway. I’m one of Jehovah’s Witnesses.” He had heard of Witnesses before. One of his family’s distributors was a Witness and Clarammachi once had a long conversation with visiting Witnesses, giving Papa their journal to read. He had long stopped attending Catholic services, so Mama’s religion held no particular relevance for him. Mama admits that she liked him—she thought he was a good person. Sure, all those other boys were hovering about, but they didn’t do anything. He was serious, he was sincere, and with great difficulty he was trying to talk to her.

“I remember telling her, in Hindi, I’d like to marry you,” Papa says, “I said it in Hindi because I was shy. If you see enough Hindi movies you know how to say that much. In school you don’t learn those kinds of words.” He spoke these words to Mama only a couple of weeks after he first called her house. I am always astonished when I hear Papa tell this part of the story, as he is such a shy guy: “I was scared of girls,” he says, “Talking to girls was hard. Because it was Mama, I had to force myself and be brave because I knew it was worthwhile.” He marvels, “I didn’t see George Thomas that often. Nobody knows why he gave me the number. This was against all odds. There was no need for me to look at someone like Mama because she was a rich girl and I was just an ordinary, middle-class person. But I was also famous, I guess. People knew me and my family in Kottayam. My grandfather was famous, all the learned people knew him. And I grew up performing in the music industry, all of my friends were musicians, music enthusiasts, fans.”

“Mama was a very respectful person,” Papa says, and I give him a side eye. “We didn't talk long, but she was a very nice, well-mannered, respectful person,” he continues, “Not like what you hear about girls in Kerala who were very shy; in those days you didn’t see girls talking to boys unless there was a reason to talk. Even in college, girls sat on one side of the classroom and boys on the other.”

Mama was shocked when he asked her to marry him and said, “First off, I don’t know you, secondly, I’m one of Jehovah’s Witnesses and I’ll only marry a Witness, and third, all of this is beside the point! My father will kill me!” Papa said, “Two weeks will become two years and you will get to know me. I will become one of Jehovah’s Witnesses. And I will ask your father for your hand.”

Papa figured out a way to see Mama every day: “Our family had the medical shop in town near Baker Junction, where I grew up. After class, I would go into town and hang out near the shop in an area we nicknamed Johnnypaddy. All the music people would gather there. Maybe in the beginning she didn't notice me standing there, but after I started calling, she did.” Mama indeed started to notice Papa hanging out in Johnnypaddy. She once asked Papa if there was something wrong with his eyes. He said, “No, I was winking at you. That’s how you tell someone you love them.” 

Nani and Mama

Mama was going back to Bombay with Nani for summer vacation. When her train was leaving, Papa stood by the bridge for as long as he could see the train and, annoyingly, Nani’s bumblebee sunglasses in the window. Mama could see him from the train, growing smaller and smaller in the distance.

When she returned, Papa gave Mama a ring to prove his sincerity. This is one of only two times he spoke to her in person. He and Tommy went to her house and he gave her Clarammachi’s ring, saying, “This is for you, but I don't want my grandaunt to notice. Can you give me another one to replace it?” Mama went to Tommy’s family’s gold shop and had a replica made, sending it secretly with Tommy’s lackey to give Papa. This part of the story is entirely new to me. I recently went with Mama to her safe deposit box and saw a simple gold signet ring with the most pleasant antique luster. I told Mama I had never seen this ring, it was so restrained compared to her rings and those she inherited from Nani. Inside, it was engraved with the name Jake. I picked it up and asked if I could wear it for awhile. I even started putting it on, because her answer was always yes, she was glad for us to take interest in her heritage jewelry. But this time she made a sharp intake, “No!” and took it from me, opening a velvet pouch with an identical ring of a gold that felt newer and more familiar: “You can wear this one instead.”

Babyammachi had already moved to America at this point, and by the autumn of 1976, visas arrived for Papa and his brothers. America was supposed to mean a drastic improvement in their lifestyle, but Papa says, “I felt just the opposite.”

Fifty people planned to go the airport to send off Papa and his brothers. Going to America was a big deal in those days and everyone wanted to share in the excitement. Mama couldn’t join because their relationship was secret, but she still arranged to see Papa off in her way. Her homeopathic doctor was in Kottayam, on the route Papa would take to the airport with carloads of friends. Mama went for her appointment, the doctor insisting nothing was wrong and wondering why she came as she stood by the front door, anticipating the motorcade. Tommy knew she was waiting and drove very slowly as they passed. Papa saw her and quietly looked back through the rear window for as long as he could see her.

Playlist:

All Out 60s Malayalam Spotify Playlist
The Sound of Music soundtrack
My Fair Lady soundtrack
Let It Bleed by The Rolling Stones
Walk, Don’t Run by The Ventures
Wipeout by The Ventures
Have You Ever Seen The Rain by Creedence Clearwater Revival
Aqualung by Jethro Tull
Samba Pa Ti by Santana
Little Wing by Jimi Hendrix
Houses of the Holy by Led Zeppelin

West Coasts: A story for my sister

Michelle Sindha Thomas

GOD’S OWN COUNTRY | KOTTAYAM 1900-1977

II: BABY THOMAS

I learn the story of their childhood from Aunty Lucy—prim, serious, distant, of the chin-length bob and Greek salad recipe—because Babyammachi never felt the need to tell us anything much before we were adults and she died at a ripe old age, always found a way to shut down our attempts at conversation with a disinclined “yes” or, more typically, “no.” You took pleasure in provoking her, painting her nails blue while she was sleeping or asking her to list the contents of her cabinets to pass time when Mama made us talk to her on the phone—which Babyammachi did not mind. She found you familiar, your earth, your purple-red blood and small forehead like hers, she maybe even found you charming. She told us she was “peculiar,” as if to ward us off. She carried a hand towel and put it down before she sat on our chairs. At her place, she kept decorative objects displayed in their packets and covered her brown 1970s furniture with thick plastic wrapping. A plastic runner also spanned the entire length of her flat. She wore sturdy glasses and brown or navy polyester pants and loose tops with a particular under-tummy drawstring—or a brown sari on special days—and a long, thick, pragmatic ponytail. She was small and matte and resisted eye contact like an unhappy button mushroom: “You don’t want anything to drink do you?” and how she sighed when we did want something to drink after our long drive just to visit her and she begrudgingly pulled out absolutely minuscule yellow-flowered cups, pouring us each a sip of grape juice. Remember the first time she babysat us? I was fully 12 years old and I called Mama and Papa on their way to the airport, crying for them not to leave us with her. The entire week, she pored over the newspaper and her tiny prayer book, looking up only to tell me “no” when I asked her if she could teach me how to embroider; I wanted to sew a rose on a handkerchief for Mama. I taught myself how to embroider that week, I wanted it so badly. Maybe that was the lesson.

David, Michelle, Cherie, Babyammachi, Ruby, Jeffrey

Over the years, I just stopped trying to engage. I am only now trying again to understand Babyammachi, asking questions long after she has gone, wanting to make sense of her and to forgive her. 

“Do you know any songs, Babyammachi?” She did teach us one song, do you remember? “Row, row, row your boat, gently down the stream. Merrily, merrily, merrily, life is but a dream.” She stopped her tuneless recital to emphasize an underlying message, alternative and alien to our former understanding of the song, raising her voice because we were in the pool, of all places, and not paying enough attention: “Did you hear that? Life is BUT a dream.”

“There are some things you should know about your grandmother,” Aunty Lucy told me.

Thresiamma had given birth to eight children: Clara, our grandmother, the eldest but the smallest and thus nicknamed “Baby.” Janet, who grew up to become a nun. Philomena who did not become a nun. Twins Lucy and Agnes; Agnes also became a nun. James the engineer, and John the baby who grew up to become a bon vivant. Marykutty, the firstborn, had died in childhood. 

This is the first I had ever heard of Marykutty: “We had an older sister but she died when she was only three,” Aunty Lucy said, “I still have a photo of Marykutty in her burial casket, with my father looking at her.” I was so surprised, I did not think to ask follow-up questions: Was she sick? Was there an accident? Baby Clara was born when Marykutty was about three years old, and their mother struggled with postpartum depression. The shock of losing Marykutty broke her depression, but infant Clara spent the first months of life in a family plunged in grief, mourning their firstborn. 

Despite this early tragedy, Thresiamma and L.C. Isaac settled into an acceptance of the situation and, with the help of family and domestic caregivers, gave Baby Clara the attention a child deserves, followed by plenty of siblings. She seems to have relished her role as the big sister: “I want to tell you that your grandmother was very talented,” Aunty Lucy said. She played harmonium when the family sang at night and said their prayers. She used to make dresses for her sisters, said Aunty Lucy: “When my twin sister and I were eight years old, on All Saints’ Day, we took our holy communion and your grandmother made dresses for us, for me and my twin.” She recalled every detail of the fabric: “It was not a true white and not a shiny satin, it was like a Chinese satin. We had a Singer machine and she made us beautiful dresses with several layers from the waist down so they would flow. Your great-grandparents also wanted to give us a tea party, so they invited our family and neighbors and all the teachers from our school; it was not a Catholic school, but they invited everyone to the house and we had a nice tea party that day.” She continued, “For Christmas we would each also have a new dress. Your grandma would make all the dresses.” I am a little upset by this anecdote because I am still offended Babyammachi wouldn’t teach me how to embroider when I asked. “Well, I never saw her doing embroidery,” Aunty Lucy maintained.

Babyammachi in college

Babyammachi was a strong student and attended St. Ann School in Kottayam, then CMS College for her undergraduate degree. “Your grandmother was also a very neatly dressed person,” Aunty Lucy said, proffering a detail that I, frilly and fanciful, might find interesting, “When you knew her she was different, but before she got married and all, she was the one in the house who was always dressed so nicely, saris spic and span and stiffly ironed.” I responded skeptically, and she conceded: “She was well dressed but people didn’t call her well dressed and all that,” then renewed her defense with the adoration of a little sister, emphasizing, before changing the contended topic, “Your grandmother was a very neat person, always made sure everything was clean.” After graduating from CMS College, Babyammachi decided to become an English teacher and went to Trivandrum University for her teaching degree.

Meanwhile, Lucy finished chemistry and physics degrees in Chenganasherry and was back in Kottayam, figuring out what she wanted to do with her life. She had declined an invitation to the University of Rome; she was not ready to leave India and thought she might teach for a while and eventually go to a medical college in Kerala. Philomena had already gone to St. Agnes College in the state of Mangalore to teach physics and had married and settled after two years. She called Lucy to let her know the chemistry lab was looking for a demonstrator and was she interested? Lucy took the position and began teaching chemistry, but her interest was diverted: “At that time,” she said, “There was an American social work professor who had started a new degree program at St. Agnes College.” In light of her upbringing, with her parents’ emphasis on public service and altruism, Aunty Lucy was drawn to the program—she joined the School of Social Work and found her calling.

Uncle James, center, and family

Papa and Mama and I went to Kottayam last year to see Babyammachi’s brother James, now the patriarch, his wife Leelamma, and all his children, gathered for the winter holidays. They are practical people and had their day packed with activity. Uncle James still had a sharp mind, filling in the gaps and correcting dates and details of Aunty Lucy’s stories. His daughter, a gynecologist, saw patients in the morning, hosted us for a lunch that finished sharply at the stated end time, and had the maids quickly transition to dinner preparations for her college friends in town for a wedding. Her efficiency and sheer steadiness of energy reminded me of you. This side of the family has particular affection for you, even though you visited them what, once? For an hour? There is an integrity, solidity, and stubbornness to you, clear markers that you are their own, down to the fixed and purposeful facial features. I, on the other hand, spent most of the visit talking to an uncle-by-marriage who loves gardening and cooking and happily sent his son to culinary school. There is something frothy, melodramatic, and impractical about me that does not resonate with the stoic Lachumthara family line, but I like to imagine that I am amusing to those soft floating dreamers who marry in: the gardening uncle, Aunty Leelamma, who squeezed my cheeks and waved goodbye until we drove out of her sight, and I imagine, too, Babyammachi’s husband, Papa’s father, our grandfather.

Kurian Thomas

Kurian Thomas had a shape-shifting quality to his face, shared by Uncle Syriac, James, Kevin, and me—the glimmer and echo of him continuing faintly in one son, two grandsons, one granddaughter. Our hair is unpredictable and disobedient, our features gentle and unfixed; we look different from every angle and in every photograph, our smiles are crooked and shy.

“We called your grandfather Kunnya, meaning, ‘Dear One,’” Aunty Lucy told me, “He was known as the best dressed man in town. In those days, most young men wore a mundu and shirt, but he would wear a bush shirt and trousers. He always walked very straight and whatever he wore was very neat.” He grew up in Ambalapurra, near Alleppy, where Babyammachi was also born: “His family was a very good family, well-known, educated. He had a bachelors in mathematics and a degree in teaching,” Aunty Lucy said, thinking he must have studied in Madras. “In those days, that was a high education,” she went on, “His whole family, they were teaching and all, three boys and two girls. He had a brother who was an older person, also a teacher. You know Mercy and all? Mercy’s father. All these people were highly educated in this family. There was another brother, Gregory, who went to Africa in the 1950s. He was also very tall and well dressed, in fact, they wanted Babyammachi to marry Gregory but our father did not want her to settle in Africa. They had a sister, Chechamma, who was a math teacher and was very pretty. She was not married but she was well respected.” I marveled at her lack of pity for Chechamma and started to understand why Papa’s side of the family never seems to feel sorry for me in my perpetual solitude. They easily comprehend that I’m a hard one to match and that life goes on; they’ve seen it before: “When your Uncle Ike was in high school and Chechamma used to come and teach him math, he would do well. The whole family was so nice. Not only nice, but they were smart and educated people,” she emphasized, in case it hadn’t yet sunken in, “They led a very good life, they were decent people. You should be very proud of your grandfather’s side. And your grandfather was a very nice man.” 

Gregory and family in Africa

Babyammachi on her wedding day

L.C. Isaac arranged for Kurian Thomas to marry his daughter, Baby. Their wedding was grand, as the first in the family, with relatives and neighbors joining  the elaborate preparations. “Did they even like each other?” I wondered aloud, unable to imagine Babyammachi as a coquette as I regarded her wedding photo, even with the start of a smile curving her mouth, the necklace of tiny diamonds and sapphires arranged in floral shapes which she incongruously, eventually left to me. Lucy was startled: “Of course! There is no question about it! They weren’t like people are in this country, kissing in public—they wouldn’t show off like that—but they respected each other.” I must work harder to understand quiet, understated love when all I know are spontaneous declarations and PDA followed by arguments in public and swift, violent, irrevocable coolings off.

Kurian and Baby Thomas

Babyammachi was about 24 years old when she married, and both she and her husband went to work in Pallai as teachers. They were respected professionals in this community; even Aunty Jaya’s mother, who was not yet involved with our family, remembers them teaching at St. Thomas School. Kurian had a reputation for fairness to the extreme, applying principles of justice to even small everyday matters: If two shopkeepers in close proximity were selling bananas, he would buy a kilo from each. Baby and Kurian Thomas took walks together in the evening; people from Pallai remember this detail with fascination (Jeffrey’s wife, three generations removed, tells me) because they found it so very modern that a husband and wife would promenade in town as peers, with so much to say to one another, in 1950s rural Kerala. They often went back to Kottayam to see the family and Aunty Lucy remembered them always together in various activities, playing badminton on the front lawn. 

Soon, Babyammachi gave birth to their sons Syriac and Isaac. While the family was not dependent on her income, she chose to continue teaching and hired a nanny to care for the children. This is the first glimpse of a Babyammachi I recognize, yet I can appreciate her interest in her work and indifference to tradition. Kurian indulged Babyammachi’s preferences, supported her decisions, and made her family his own. “Sometimes your grandfather would come and give me some money,” said Aunty Lucy, “Seventy rupees was a lot of money at that time. Kunnya was an extremely nice person. He always had a big smile, talked very nicely, you could tell he was smart and nice,” she paused, before she started crying.

Kurian Thomas with his students

By his early 30s, Kurian Thomas was known as a talented mathematics teacher, beloved by his students. Uncle Ike even met one of them lately in America, who remembers him as the most well-dressed person (Uncle Ike also fondly describes his neat collection of ties), disciplined, passionate about his work and deeply involved with school activities. One day, Kurian was taking his students for an excursion—on the way, by the time they left Pallai and neared Kottayam, he felt a pain in his chest. He was admitted to the district hospital in Kottayam, where Babyammachi’s mother Thresiamma rushed immediately. The chest pain developed into a heart attack. “I think in those days,” Aunty Lucy said, “they did not have modern methods of CPR or EKG tests available, nor did people recognize all the symptoms of heart disease. He was not heavy and he never smoked.” Thresiamma stayed with him, comforting him, fervently saying prayers and hoping for recovery, with Kurian repeating the prayers after her. While Babyammachi was still in Pallai, she took solace in knowing that Kunnya was not alone, her mother was there to support him and was with him when, after two hours of suffering, he passed away. “That’s what I want you to know,” Aunty Lucy said, “He died in a very nice way. It was not a sudden death, but he was with our mother.” She had been in Mangalore, studying: “In those days you could not come right back. Or even know right away.” 

Kurian Thomas was buried in Kottayam. He was survived by his wife, Baby, now 28, and sons, Syriac, four years old, Isaac, two years, and Jacob, six months.

Babyammachi took on an identity and a refrain that she would not shake off and actively vocalized for the rest of her long life: “I am a widow with three young sons.”

Mama says Babyammachi also maintained a superstition: “Everyone I love dies.”

She moved the children in with her family in Kottayam and took a teaching position in Ramapuram, an hour away by bus. L.C. Isaac had encouraged her to take a job away from the mounting responsibilities at home so she could recover from the shock and rest. Everyone in the family was impacted by the loss: This is when Janet and Agnes decided to become nuns and dedicate their lives to prayer on behalf of the three dear fatherless boys. Thresiamma cared for them during the week with the aid of two domestic helpers and in time, the boys began to believe Thresiamma and L.C. Isaac were their own parents; Babyammachi would only come home to them on the weekends. When she was home, she busied herself with school paperwork and grading student assignments. “She had a hard life that way,” Aunty Lucy said, “Your dad and all didn’t attach to her like a mother. I can see that.”

Babyammachi with little Papa

West Coasts: A story for my sister

Michelle Sindha Thomas

GOD’S OWN COUNTRY | KOTTAYAM 1900-1977

I: L.C. ISAAC

Agreed, Kottayam is kind of a middle of nowhere place, but this saved us from the bloodshed and struggle experienced in other regions as India drove towards independence—it is, after all, our somewhere. At the turn of the 19th century, our ancestors were tucked away inland, out of colonial sight and mind, well-behaved armchair activists living in domestic Dravidian bliss. 

In 1838, CMS College moved to its present campus on a beautiful elevation in Kottayam, forested with feathery casuarina trees, with views of the Western Ghat mountain range. Benjamin Bailey, the founding principal, also served as architect of the school and chapel, fusing Victorian Gothic style with local structural archetypes including outdoor breezeways, clay tile roofs, and carved stairways of dark precious wood. He went on to establish the first printing press in Kerala in 1846, publishing the world’s first English-Malayalam dictionary, the first Malayalam-English dictionary, soon followed by a translation of the Bible to Malayalam. In addition to Malayalam and English, the press responded to demand for publications in Tamil, Sanskrit, Syriac, and other Indian and foreign languages.

The college printing office grew to become CMS Press, a full-scale publishing house that put Kottayam on the map as a hub of the newspaper, magazine, and book publishing industry to this day, when over 80% of the books published in Kerala are from Kottayam, over thirty periodicals are published in Kottayam, along with the Mathrubhoomi, Deshabhimani, Madhyamam, and Deepika newspapers. The Malayalam Manorama, published in Kottayam, is one of the largest circulating daily papers in India. Kerala boasts 99% literacy; we of Kottayam, the quiet and shy of Aksharanagari—“The Land of Letters”—declare 100% literacy, our proudest claim to fame.

In the 1900s, Maharaja Sri Mulam Tirunal increased government spending on education in Kerala to 15 times the expenditure of previous years. He dramatically increased the public works allotment and, while the royal family’s spending remained conservative, he advocated for bold developments that raised the revenue of the state. He advanced the visionary, reformist agenda established by his forbears, his administration acquiring for the kingdom of Travancore the colonial title, “Model State of India.”

By 1901, Kottayam had just over 17,500 residents: a population of students and professors were drawn in by CMS College along with writers and others who contributed to the growing publishing industry, creating organizations for professional and political support such as the Malayali Social Union and the Literary Workers’ Cooperative Society. While still a small town, Kottayam was on the forefront of progressive movements and social reform initiatives, earning a reputation as a center for cultural life, intellectual discourse, and political agitation. One of the first demands for social justice, the Malayali Memorial, was a response to the government policy of appointing officers from other states to the most important administrative positions controlling trade and commerce in Kerala, even when well-qualified locals were available to serve. While 10,037 angry Malayalis signed the petition, even in rebellion they were mild-mannered, drafting out their requests at the Kottayam Public Library and presenting them to the maharajah in written form.

One such gentle rebel, our great-grandfather Lachumthara Chacko Isaac, found his place in Kottayam and put down roots for the rest of us. L.C. Isaac grew up in Kuttanad, a backwaters region where people traveled by boat, where his parents had a farm and paddy fields. He was a bright, inquisitive youth and when he came of age, his marriage was arranged to a girl from Alleppey, a relatively cosmopolitan port city of lagoons, canals, and bridges—“The Venice of the East.” Our great-grandmother Thresiamma was educated at an English-medium convent school run by foreign nuns; she complemented her husband, taking pride in both the secular and religious education of their children, reading the Bible to them in English every night.

After marriage, L.C. Isaac finished his degree in journalism and went to work as a field reporter for Deepika, the oldest circulating Malayalam-language daily, known for innovative journalism with a focus on advocacy and social progress. His principles aligned with the mission of the paper, as published in their first issue on January 3, 1927: 

To represent the needs of the common man to the rulers

To protect and safeguard the inalienable rights of the people

To fight for Truth, Justice, and Freedom and to unite the separated brethren of Kerala

In service to these goals, Deepika often hired reporters with a background in law, and some even maintained a practice. The paper saw great potential in L.C. Isaac from his coverage of the capital of Trivandrum, and sent him to study law. At the time there were no law schools in Kerala, so he completed his studies at Madras University.  

Upon his return, L.C. Isaac was celebrated as the first person from Kuttanad to earn a law degree. He first practiced at court in Alleppey—but he was a highly principled idealist and quickly became disillusioned with the nature of his profession. He found himself defending clients he knew in his heart were guilty and could not bear to go on protecting. Over time, he leaned his practice towards legal theory and civic engagement, continuing to work as a journalist and soon earning a position as an editor at Malabar Mail in Cochin. In 1935, he and Thresiamma moved their family—now including children Clara (a.k.a “Baby”), Janet, Philomena, and twins Lucy and Agnes—from Alleppey to Cochin. He began teaching, his reputation grew, and the family stayed in Cochin just long enough for the birth of their first son, James, when Deepika called L.C. Isaac to join them once again—this time, as chief editor.

While I hardly relate to our relatives on the Thomas side, even the most eccentric ones somehow still mild, mannerly, conservative, I am ever fascinated by this great-grandfather born at the turn of the 20th century, a boy from the countryside who raised his own children with priorities and values that were so modern in the world of that moment, let alone in the context of his Kerala Catholic community. When I have any sort of scholarly or artistic achievement, Papa won’t say too much, because he doesn’t want me to get a big head, but he smiles softly and says, your great-grandfather would have been proud of you. Papa knew him only as an old man and once told me to ask our grandmother what he was like. Babyammachi was hard to approach, and I put off the topic until it was too late. So, before we lost her, I begged our grand-aunt Lucy—so distant she was more of an acquaintance than an aunty—to tell me more about him. When she got sick, my desperation intensified and I called her in Chicago at all hours; on weekdays she would say, “No, I’m going to the doctor, now is not a good time.” I called her on Sundays and she said, “No, I’m going to church, now is not a good time.” After many weeks of persistence she asked me to list my questions so she could prepare for the conversation. She noted the questions and hung up. A few weeks later, she finally called me and shared what she could remember. Aunty Lucy and Babyammachi are still as foreign to my spirit as ever, but L.C. Isaac has come alive—mild, mannerly, maintained, but also intellectually energetic, inspiring, an ideal.

The family moved again and settled near Deepika headquarters in Kottayam. L.C. Isaac took this opportunity to quit law and fully remove himself from situations that troubled his conscience. Even though he shifted his focus to writing and editing, he became renowned as a principled legal professional, serving as an advisor to individuals, families, and businesses. He and his family were showered with appreciation; Aunty Lucy told me, “When we were young, we didn’t make cake and all at home. In those days it was not very easy and it was something very expensive. We were eager for Christmas; my father was a legal advisor for many companies, and they wanted to reward him around Christmastime. We had a famous bakery in Kottayam, and they made excellent fruitcake and all. On Christmas Eve, we would go to church for midnight mass, knowing that when we went back home there would be lots of cake waiting for us. So we would all sit through the mass, excited to go back and have cake.” I guess that’s why we have always taken fruitcake when we visited her.

Our great-grandfather became so admired as a mentor that writers were always visiting to discuss ideas with him; publishers would send manuscripts and request his input, asking him to read works in advance of publication to write the forward or a review for the paper. Aunty Lucy said, “We used to have a room filled with books we could read anytime. Our house was like a big library. Any new magazine, any new book written, the publishers would all send that to our house. We used to get all the newspapers, all the books, not only that, all the English newspapers, foreign magazines, we got all of it. That is how I got interested,” she said, giving me the first key to understanding why she broke from the comfort of tradition and the rest of us now have lives in the United States: “The foreign magazines interested me, with all those photos of far-off places and good food. That is how I got interested in living abroad, those magazines attracted me, all the good things.” Our stoic grand-aunt was once little Lucy in the library, studying exotic lands in glossy magazines and saying, “I want to go somewhere like that.” Lucy studied chemistry and physics, preparing for a career in medicine. She was accepted to the University of Rome medical school. Her parents encouraged her, but neither pushed nor pulled her, supporting her sensitively: “I felt nervous to go to Rome. My father told me, ‘I don’t want you to go now,’ only because he sensed I was nervous and gave me an excuse to decline.” My general ambivalence towards Aunty Lucy replaced with something like outrage when I realized she could have pioneered our way to fabulous dolce vita Rome instead of Chicago. She shrugged it off, “My close friend went to Italy and became a doctor. I meet her sometimes.”

Interestingly, our sour Babyammachi was the first child who was musically inclined. Her father arranged for a Carnatic music teacher to visit the house and teach the children. Baby and Agnes  took quickly to their lessons and every night, during prayer time, they would lead the family in song; Baby became so enthusiastic about the harmonium that even when the family went out of town for holidays they would lug it along for her to play. When the youngest, Johnny, came along many years later, they arranged for the same teacher. Johnny became passionate about music and his parents encouraged him to hold rehearsals with his friends at their house, which was full of life, good company and artistic productivity. James loved photography and built a darkroom at home to develop his work. Another teacher was arranged to instruct the girls in classical dance, and Philomena excelled at bharat natayam. 

L.C. Isaac further took an interest in herbominerals and started a medical store. The business did so well that he was able to create work for his nephews, bringing them to Kottayam and introducing them to the potential for financial advancement beyond the limited opportunities of their ancestral village. The studious of his young relatives followed his steps and took positions at Deepika. He was the patriarch of the extended family, respected and beloved. “My father understood the value of education,” Aunty Lucy told me, “he didn’t build big buildings with his money, he helped others. You should feel proud of him.” While he retained the family property in Kuttunad, he rented the house in Kottayam and never invested in real estate or land; I wonder if he was influenced by a certain growing political ideology of the time, while good Catholic Aunty Lucy said simply, “He wasn’t materialistic at all.” He wanted his daughters, sons, and relatives to be well educated, self-sufficient, to support themselves. He took them along for his public engagements and trained them for public speaking, encouraging them to enter local speech competitions. Can you believe Babyammachi once gave prize-winning speeches!?  

L.C. Isaac, center

By the 1930s, the population of Kottayam was over 25,000, comprised of landlords and farmers, writers and members of the publishing industry, employees and affiliates of CMS college which, by 1938, began to admit female students. Ever in tune, L.C. Isaac and Thresiamma founded Vanitharamam, a magazine for women. Deepika newspaper printed the publication, full of articles and fiction by professional writers with occasional contributions from their daughters. “When you visit me, I’ll show you the magazine,” Aunty Lucy said, “You will see articles with photos of Indira Gandhi and all that. And cartoons.” She shared my love for graphic design and waxed rhapsodic over the ads: “You should see all the English advertisements. It is very cute and you will see the advertisements of some stores in Kottayam. St. Mary’s Hostel, CMS College. Catholic Bank of India. Ads, pictures, there are lots of ads for gold and ornaments places. When you come you can see that.”

I have consumed too much material about India from a Western lens, too many histories and movies and books, and I was confused by this intellectual, all-Indian India she described, the 1930s magazine with English ads directed to Malayali women, with no mention whatsoever of Englishmen. I asked her about the nature of the colonial, pre-Independence era in Kottayam, or what she understood of it as a child in the ‘30s and ‘40s: “We didn’t have that many British people in Kottayam. At CMS college, there were some, but we didn’t have daily contact with them. There was a school across our house in Kottayam, and there were some English people there, but there was no conflict. It was very peaceful in those days. The convent was nice and we children were taught very well.” I was relieved to hear one Indian story in which colonizers are background noise, irrelevant to the immediate events.

Decades later, L.C. Isaac is still cherished in Kottayam; historians mention him as one of the great writers of Kerala. Just lately, Uncle James received a note of thanks and a collection of letters between his father and a local official that details how he helped one professor N.P. Paul surmount obstacles and raise the funds to open a tutorial college. L.C. Isaac was open-minded, supporting Lucy when she eventually decided to move to the US in the 1960s, an unmarried, ambitious young woman seeking adventure in a country admitting Asians for the first time since the Barred Zone Immigration Act of 1917. He must have understood her drive; his brothers had been content to stay in Kuttanad while he wanted to explore and experience more. While he was a religious man and honored tradition, he made liberal accommodations for personal choice. When James had finished his studies and began working, L.C. Isaac had a conversation with him: “Son, now you’re on your own. There are a lot of marriage proposals coming. I would like to know if you have already selected someone—if you are in love with someone, please let us know.” Before L.C. Isaac responded to any of the proposals on behalf of his son, he wanted to make sure he wouldn’t impede an existing love affair.

L.C. Isaac died on May 3, 1968. He had wanted tea from the teashop that morning, and little Papa was sent off to fetch it. Papa returned with the tea; his grandfather drank it and went to sleep. Later, Papa was walking past his grandfather’s room, saw him nearly fall from his bed, and realized something was wrong. He ran to his grandmother: “Ammachi, come soon! Appachin is falling off the bed!”

L.C. Isaac and Babyammachi, standing from left. Syriac, Ike, and Papa seated from left.

L.C. Isaac created a cocoon for those in his care, characterized by a purity and righteousness manifest in his legacy: There are writers and educators among us, nuns, ministers, lawyers, doctors, engineers, psychologists, musicians, artists, accountants, a college principal. For me, however, one persistent image looms over it all: Babyammachi burying her nose in the newspaper, an ostrich with her head in the sand, ignoring her sons (especially Papa because he had abandoned Catholicism and chosen Mama), and later her grandchildren (especially you and me, because we were the fruits of betrayal). Did the newspaper connect her to a simpler time? Did the scent of ink on newsprint comfort her? Did a fixation on current events prevent rumination on the past, did current events, to be consumed at any cost, keep her in the present? Did she avoid engaging with us because we reminded her of those who were gone? Papa and I refuse to stay long in situations after we have become disillusioned, we cannot bear to stay in positions that grate our sense of authenticity and personal moral code—we can be very black and white and maybe perpetually naive in that way—we pick up, even at great personal risk, move on, change direction, and repeat and repeat.